Haute Couture: The Essence of High Fashion
Haute Couture – a French expression that evokes a form of sartorial art, exclusive and made to measure , in which artisanal savoir faire finds its maximum expression in the love (more than attention) for details.
Details that surprise and make an item of clothing a true manifesto of the fashion house.
The FW23 Haute Couture fashion show by the maison Valentino, held in early July in Rome, is proof of this.
Kaia Gerber opened the show with vintage slouchy trousers, which at first glance appear to be made of ordinary denim, but were actually expertly embroidered with beads in 80 shades of indigo.
Let's dive into the haute couture ecosystem, examining its origins, evolution and requirements.
When was Haute Couture born?
The birth of haute couture has a name, a date and a place: Charles Frederick Worth, 1860, Paris.
Worth is universally known as the father of haute couture , as well as the first couturier and pioneer of fashion as we understand (and experience) it today.
After spending his adolescence in the service of textile merchants in London, Worth moved to Paris at the age of twenty.
His creative talent and innovative vision quickly made themselves noticed in the Parisian fashion scene, so much so that his clothes were exhibited at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851 and at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1855.
But there's more.
Worth deserves credit for having conceived and spread the concept of tailoring .
Each of her dresses is handmade , from scratch, with fine materials sewn to the customer's silhouette based on their preferences and stylistic needs.
The fundamental step is precisely this: the figure of the tailor transforms into a couturier .
There is no doubt that Worth deserves credit for the birth and development of haute couture.
The scenario? Simple to imagine.
Crisp Parisian air, wrapped in a typical vintage and romantic flavor where sophisticated women of high society love to go to the most renowned ateliers.
Fashion boutiques are the epitome of exclusivity and craftsmanship, where designers and stylists work with fine fabrics to create tailor-made clothes.
And it was in the 19th century that names like Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiapparelli entered the haute couture ecosystem, influencing (positively, of course) its paradigms and perception.
But let's proceed in order.
The Evolution of High Fashion
After the Second World War, haute couture was finally reborn.
Christian Dior's New Look collection, launched in 1947 and a pioneer of a new stylistic code, rekindled the creative flair of designers and couturiers.
Square shoulders, tight waists and full skirts will be the trendsetter for the following decades.
It was precisely in the 1950s and 1960s that Paris reclaimed its title as the beating heart of haute couture, which began to embrace nascent technological innovation.
And if fashion is seasonal, haute couture also adapts to the changes of the era, renewing aesthetic codes with contemporary elements.
Keeping up with the innovations and socio-cultural changes of the time, but always with the same ethics: craftsmanship and sartorial workmanship.
During the 50s the scene was stolen by the creative flair of Balenciaga , which took shape in the fluid lines that, although minimal, managed to communicate a clear stylistic propensity.
And if Coco Chanel brought with her a burst of chic and practical style, with her iconic longuette skirts, Elsa Schiaparelli 's creations are a silent explosion of art and fashion.
Valentino was the one to crown the success of haute couture with his first collection at Palazzo Pitti in 1962.
What are the haute couture brands nowadays?
Today, haute couture houses represent the pinnacle of prestige in luxury fashion.
These are fashion houses with a valuable heritage, from incisive creativity to impeccable craftsmanship.
From Valentino led by Pierpaolo Piccioli to Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri up to Givenchy , from the creative direction of Matthew Williams to Atelier Versace up to Maison Margiela .
Each maison has a distinctive signature and a unique vision, which is reflected in creations that have become true style icons.
It must also be said that most fashion houses have taken part in modernity, also declining their creations in the ready-to-wear version.
What is the difference between high fashion and ready-to-wear?
Haute couture and ready-to-wear are two interconnected aspects of the luxury fashion industry.
While haute couture focuses on the creation of unique, bespoke garments, ready-to-wear features collections that are ready to be purchased and worn by customers.
The level of quality and design does not change.
Simply put, ready-to-wear offers a wider audience the opportunity to approach the world of luxury, with a range of high-quality garments that reflect the elegance and savoir-faire of Haute Couture.
Haute Couture: the requirements
The name haute couture was legally registered on January 23, 1945 , with related guidelines managed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture.
To be recognized as haute couture, a maison should:
- make tailor-made and hand-made clothes for each customer;
- collections must be submitted twice a year, in January and July;
- each collection must have at least 50 completely original creations, with day and evening dresses;
- the laboratory must be based in Paris and have at least 20 employees.
Particularly strict requirements, but indicative of the quality of the haute couture denomination.
Conclusions
Haute couture is the highest expression of art and creativity in the fashion ecosystem.
The fashion houses challenge the boundaries of tradition, giving life to exclusively made-to-measure garments that have the power to inspire trends and new stylistic lines.
